Humility

I have always loved the ocean. To me she always been a great and loving giver of life, keeper of wonders and mother of mer-creatures, cool and soothing and glistening.

Today, she showed me her strength. I found out that she is not only great and loving, but also great and terrible, a taker of life as well as a giver. She is icy and tumultuous and utterly wild. She cannot be tamed.
Today she said to me, this is what I can do. Don't underestimate me. She took away my senses, my breath and all control as she tossed me under wave after wave. She made sure I would never forget that I am small and she is the master.

Here's a little something to wrench your gut out. The waves I was riding had 4 foot faces, but goddamn, this is what it felt like to me.


The gnarliest wave ever in Tahiti.